Last spring, when Jazz emailed the itinerary he had
booked for me on Orbitz, all I could do was smile. It was so outrageous:
Shanghai to Moscow to Warsaw. Departing
from Pudong International Airport at 2:00 AM, on Aeroflot. “He found a really
affordable ticket,” I shared with my department chair, a historian of Russia,
who raised an eyebrow.
The truth is, though Russia wasn’t my ultimate
destination, I was excited about my Aeroflot flights and my brief layovers in
Moscow. I’m not a fan of cultural theme
parks where exotic other cultures are commodified and put on display, usually
for consumption by members of a more hegemonic culture. But I do find certain kinds of
self-consciously manufactured cultural encounters fascinating: opening
ceremonies for the Olympics, for instance. And I do like traveling on other
nations’ national airlines. In both
cases the hosts have a unique opportunity to communicate their own perception
of some essentialized self to a captive (and temporarily vulnerable)
audience. Hungry and strapped in my
seat, I’m surprisingly willing to listen.
Jazz and I once flew with the girls direct from
Beijing to Delhi on Ethiopian Air. This
too was an “affordable ticket,” and to be honest, we weren’t entirely sure what
route we would be taking when we boarded the plane. We watched the periodic displays on the
flight status monitors while chasing our toddler girls up and down the aisles
on their frequent visits to the galley. The plane icon on multiple screens indicated
we were headed south, then southwest, somewhere over Guangxi, then over Yunnan,
before skirting the Himalayas via Burma, Bangladesh, and finally to Delhi. The flight attendants—an equal number of
males and females— were incredibly hospitable and seemingly unhurried. They
dispensed a generous supply of snacks and toys—wing pins, crayons, coloring
books and playing cards—as the girls made themselves at home in the galley’s
jump seats. Nothing endears me more to an airline’s staff than some indication
that they actually like children. That, and their serving edible food. The
vegetarian meals—both Indian and Ethiopian—were delicious, and announcements
were made in English and Hindi, after having first been made in Amharic. The
flight lasted seven plus hours. Days
after we arrived in Delhi, someone asked me if we had checked the safety
records for Ethiopian Airlines. No, the
thought hadn’t crossed my mind. All I
knew was that after seven hours of Ethiopian Air I longed to visit Ethiopia
some day.
I’m not so sure I can say the same about
Russia. Perhaps it was the fact that the
flight departed at 2:00 AM and both passengers and flight attendants looked
haggard. Perhaps it was the overpowering
smell of vodka as I passed through the first class cabin filled with ruddy men;
perhaps it was the one woman in first class, a young Russian looking impossibly
uncomfortable in a very short, fitted backless dress and high heels and an
unhappy scowl directed at her male companion; perhaps it was the lecherous
looks of the vodka-drinking male passengers directed at the impossibly
uncomfortable-looking woman; or perhaps it was the bright orange suits of the
flight attendants and their red hats and scarves. Whatever it was, the aesthetic of that
particular Aeroflot flight wasn’t working for me.
My perception may have also been skewed by that
fact that I was traveling alone and felt some pangs in my parting. Earlier in the evening my girls had not given
me an easy goodbye, and I had then traveled from Nanjing to Shanghai via
high-speed rail, together with an old friend from our days in San
Francisco. I had parted from him in the
desolate lobby of his hotel in the high-tech industrial suburbs of Shanghai
before continuing on in a cab to a cavernous, nearly empty airport. I suspect I was the only American on that
flight, and in any case, I seemed to be the only native English speaker.
In my uprootedness, I have never felt more
Chinese. Though physically I may have
looked more like the Russian passengers and flight attendants, I felt a natural
affinity towards my Chinese fellow travelers, as if they made some sense to me
and these others did not. Yet even the
Chinese around me didn’t fit into any neat categories of my China world. Who were these folks heading to Russia one
week before the Chinese national holiday?
There were the obvious businessmen and a few grandparent-types, but
there were others I couldn’t make sense of, like the young woman seated next to
me traveling on a Chinese passport. She
looked like a college student and would have easily passed as a
Chinese-American with her shoulder-length hair, iPad, and contact lenses:
except that she didn’t appear to speak English.
In our brief exchange she addressed me in Mandarin, she used Russian
with the flight attendants and she was reading a Russian novel. For most of the flight she was curled up
comfortably with a neck pillow and iPod.
Who was this woman and what was her story? And why did I feel so comfortable sitting
next to her in our silence?
The trip to Poland was my sister Steph’s idea. My
mom had a big birthday last December, and Dad the following June. Poland, the land that sprouted our maternal
grandparents and great-grandparents, had always been one of my mom’s dream
destinations. Steph took care of booking the lodgings and flights, including
her own as “chaperone” (which really meant she was traveling as a very generous
and nurturing host). Once I knew I’d be
in China and unattached to any teaching obligations, I threw my hat in the ring
with this lot, and hence the bookings on Orbitz.
At root, my trip to Poland was an excuse to have
time with my parents and sister. Steph
had conceived of the trip in the weeks that followed our brother’s death. I somehow assumed there was a connection—the
death of a descendent and a trip to the ancestral motherland—though at the time
Steph was hatching this plan I never thought to ask for the inspiration. At minimum, the trip seemed to me to offer my
parents a kind of distant respite: a
place and a time where they could imagine themselves arriving months down the
road. When Steph had first floated the
idea it felt inconceivable to me to commit to joining, either physically or
financially. I was struggling with
letting my brother go and in many ways I was living in the past—in a world of
memories and lost possibilities—and simply could not project myself that far
into the future. When I did finally
decide to go, if there was one thing I could imagine it was to have more days
with my family. As outrageous at it
seemed—Shanghai, to Moscow, to Warsaw—this transnational rendezvous made sense
to me.
In the midst of our relocation, I had no time to
prepare for this trip. I couldn’t find
any guidebooks for Poland in Nanjing, and by the time I thought of it there
wasn’t enough time to order anything from Amazon. Our shipment of belongings from the States
still has not arrived, so my options for packing were limited. I boarded the plane
with a small carry-on filled with little more than two pairs of jeans and some
light layers culled from my larger suitcase in Nanjing. In addition to my journal and laptop, I also
had two books I managed to download onto my Kindle the day before my
flight: Heart of Europe: The Past in Poland’s Present, by Norman Davies;
and The Life of Faustina Kowalska by
Sister Sophia Michalenko (the official biography of Poland’s relatively
recently canonized St. Faustina). I
sweated it out through immigration at Moscow Sheremetyevo (SVO), uncertain as to
whether or not I needed a transit visa (I didn’t have one, and never researched
this). Having cleared this hurdle, and noting
that my LOT Polish flight was due to depart in 30 minutes and was likely
boarding, I scanned the long line of transfer passengers for clues of what to
do next and then cut through the crowd, following an authoritative female
Russian security guard who bellowed “Warsaw!” with such urgency I was propelled
into action. I was the last to board my
plane after passing through security, but the flight attendants, dressed in a
serene blue, put me at ease by helping to stow my carry-on. I caught a glimpse of my reticent neighbor as
he stood to let me claim my window seat.
Making my way through the opening chapters of the Davies book, I stole
looks at my seat-mate throughout the flight.
He looked remarkably like my grandmother, and by his sullen stare and
rigid posture I presumed that, like Grandma, he was anxious about flying.
My most distinctive memory of my arrival at Warsaw
Frederic Chopin (WAW) is the smallness and emptiness of the airport. It was
nearly 8:00 on a Sunday morning. Through
glass walls I could see a sparse cluster of passengers waiting at an unopened
departure gate —most of them Hasidic Jews, males, prayer books open and shawls draping
their shoulders. Several weary travelers
had their shoes kicked off and were dozing, some flat-backed and some fetal,
across multiple rows of seats. I felt a distinct pain that I had forgotten to
download any of Elie Wiesel’s writings onto my Kindle. Ambivalent about visiting Auschwitz, I wasn’t
sure if I was ready to reread Night or
Dawn, but I felt a yearning to have Wiesel
with me in Souls on Fire or Messengers of God.
I had also forgotten to bring US dollars, and at a
money change window before immigration I handed a woman my credit card and for
an exorbitant fee I was handed back zloty.
After some hesitation, I emptied my wallet of a thick wad of Renminbi
(zipping the red and blue Chinese bills into a pocket in my handbag) replacing
these with a very thin stack of unfamiliar bills and lightweight coins.
When I exited the airport there were no signs of
anyone from my Aeroflot flight. I scanned the short row of cabs for a name
familiar from the email Steph had forwarded regarding our lodgings (“take MPT
taxi, Sawa Taxi or Merc Taxi to Royal Route Residence at the old town, Nosy
Swiat, 29/3”). The second cab in line
was a Sawa and so I grabbed it. The
driver, a round-faced grandfatherly man, did not speak a word of English, but
he did understand Nosy Swiat. After we
pulled away from the curb I opened my wallet and began to examine the bills I’d
been handed, crisp and pastel, marked with eagles and vines. I counted out 40 zloty: “taxi cost to old
town is tariff 1 by day, around 40 zl (10 EUR). May go up to 40EUr with
unauthorized drivers (120 pln).”
Plum, I love the way you see the richness in travel here. That crazy transnational identity of yours comes alive in the way you describe your seatmates and flight attendants. I remember having similar warm feelings about Indonesia and Singapore years ago while flying their national airlines.
ReplyDeleteLooking forward to the next installment!
Ed
Colette, your courage and confidence as a world traveler is so inspiring. Echoing Ed, I agree it is very cool that you turned the travel part of your experience into a time for reflection. Your descriptions of your fellow travelers and your instincts about who they are, and who you are relative to them, are as colorful and vivid as your snapshots.
ReplyDeleteLoving the golden Polish cliffhanger. More, more, more!